Do dermatologists use toner?

Most dermatologists do not use toner. A pH-balanced cleanser eliminates the need for a separate toning step. Toner was originally developed to restore the skin's slightly acidic pH after cleansing with alkaline soap, but modern well-formulated cleansers already do this.

Do you need toner in your skincare routine?

No. Most people do not need a toner. A good cleanser and moisturizer are often enough. Rather than adding a toner, focus on finding a better face wash that cleans effectively in one step.

Does toner improve skincare absorption?

No. Water alone softens the skin and makes it easier for ingredients to penetrate. A separate toning step is not necessary to improve absorption of other skincare products.

When should you use a toner?

The only toner worth using is a liquid exfoliant — either an AHA for normal or dry skin, or a BHA for oily skin — applied intentionally before vitamin C in the morning. These are not traditional toners but targeted exfoliants. Skip this step entirely if your skin is irritated.

What is the difference between AHA and BHA exfoliants?

AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) exfoliants work on the surface of the skin to remove dead skin cells, improve texture, and boost brightness — best for normal or dry skin. BHA (beta hydroxy acid) exfoliants penetrate into pores to reduce excess oil and control shine — best for oily or acne-prone skin.

Do dermatologists recommend eye cream?

Most dermatologists do not recommend a separate eye cream. Eye creams are often smaller, more expensive versions of regular moisturizers with similar ingredients. A well-formulated face cream applied to the eye area is equally effective for most people.

Is eye cream worth it?

For most people, no. There is nothing uniquely effective about eye cream compared to a well-formulated face cream, except the higher cost. The exception is people with oily skin who use a gel moisturizer — they may benefit from a separate, richer product for the eye area and neck.

What should I use instead of eye cream?

A high-quality face cream applied to the eye area is the best alternative to eye cream. By your mid-30s, a good face cream used twice daily on the face, neck, chest, and eye area provides effective hydration without the added cost of a separate eye product.

Are exosomes, peptides, and growth factors worth using in skincare?

These are Level B skincare ingredients — they may offer minor benefits but lack the depth of clinical evidence behind Level A products like sunscreen, vitamin C, and retinoids or bakuchiol. They are best thought of as optional add-ons, not foundations. There is no strong evidence that topical exosomes, peptides, or growth factors provide meaningful long-term skin improvement.

Do peptides in skincare actually work?

Some peptides offer modest surface-level benefits — for example, Argireline (Hexapeptide) can temporarily smooth the skin, and heparin sulfate can help calm it. However, these results are not comparable to the proven long-term benefits of Level A products like retinoids, vitamin C, and sunscreen. Peptides are fine to use if your core routine is already in place, but they should not replace it.

Are injectable peptides and growth factors better than topical versions?

Yes. Injectable treatments such as platelet-rich plasma (PRP) have clearer evidence for promoting healing and skin rejuvenation than any topical application of the same ingredients. Topical versions of these ingredients do not penetrate deeply enough to replicate injectable results.

How many steps should a skincare routine have?

Fewer is better. A simple routine focused on quality over quantity — cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen, vitamin C, and a night turnover product like retinoid or bakuchiol — will outperform a 7-step routine that includes unnecessary products. The more steps in a skincare routine, the more opportunities for irritation and product interactions.

Skincare Products I Don’t Use as a Dermatologist: Toner, Eye Cream, Exosomes

Q: What are Level A skincare products?

Level A skincare products are those with the strongest clinical evidence for meaningful, long-term skin improvement. They include sunscreen, vitamin C, and retinoids or bakuchiol. These should form the foundation of any skincare routine before adding optional Level B products like peptides or growth factors.

By Heather D. Rogers, MD, FAAD, Double Board-Certified Dermatologist

The world of skincare can often feel complex and overwhelming, with constant pressure to follow beauty trends or succumb to a 7 step skincare routine. I am here as your friendly and very honest dermatologist to remind you that you need quality over quantity to achieve healthy skin. Focusing on a few effective, evidence-based products will give you better results. Less is more.

Below are common skincare products I do not use and why.

1. Toner

Toner was originally developed to balance the skin by increasing its acidity after cleansing. Since soap is basic (alkaline), toner helps raise the skin's pH back to its slightly acidic level.

Why I Do Not Use a Toner

I don’t wash my face in the morning. Instead, I splash my face with cold water to start my day
I always wash my face with my Doctor Rogers Face Wash at the end of the day, which is already pH-balanced, so toner is unnecessary.

Do You Need Toner to Clean Your Skin?

No - a well-formulated cleanser eliminates the need for a separate toning step. Some use toner to ensure their skin is clean but rather than adding a toner, I suggest finding a better face wash to achieve clean skin in one step. It’s also good to keep in mind that our skin is not made to be squeaky clean. “Squeaky clean” means the skin is stripped of its natural oils and the barrier is damaged, often caused by double cleansing.

Does Toner Improve Product Absorption?

Others claim toner is needed to prepare the skin for better absorption of the next steps in their skincare routine. This is not necessary. Water alone softens the skin making it easier for ingredients to penetrate which is why I start my morning skincare routine by splashing my face with water.

When I Do Recommend a Toner (Liquid Exfoliant)

The only toner worth using is a liquid exfoliant, either AHA for normal / dry skin or BHA for oily skin, applied before vitamin C in the morning.

For Normal or Dry Skin (AHA)

For normal or dry skin, a gentle AHA based liquid exfoliant can remove surface dead skin cells and improve skin texture and brightness, helping achieve the “glass” skin look. One of my favorites is Skinceuticals Cell Cycle Catalyst.

For Oily Skin (BHA)

For oily skin, a BHA based liquid exfoliant can help unclog pores, reduce excess oil and control shine. A great one is Paula's Choice 2% BHA.

Limitations of Toners and Liquid Exfoliants

Keep in mind these products work on the surface of the skin. They do not build collagen or correct sun damage like retinoids or bakuchiol, which can be found in my Night Repair Treatment. They work more superficially on the skin.

This is also a step to SKIP if your skin is irritated.

Bottom Line on Toner

Most people do not need a toner. A good cleanser and moisturizer are often enough.

2. Eye Cream

Why I Do Not Recommend Eye Cream

Eye creams are often simply smaller, more expensive versions of moisturizers with similar ingredients. Even today, when New Beauty polls readers, the product people are still searching for is an effective eye cream. Why? Because eye creams can only do so much. Yes moisturizer helps but there is nothing magical about eye cream vs a well formulated face cream except the cost.

Why Eye Cream Became Popular

The delicate skin around our eyes is often the first to show signs of aging. Thin and prone to dryness and wrinkles, it needs extra moisture. In the 1930s, the first eye cream, "Eyeconic" was introduced, formulated with lanolin and petrolatum. It was an instant success from a sales perspective, and the beauty industry quickly realized people would pay a premium for small jars of hope, promising to smooth fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes whether or not they work.

What to Use Instead of Eye Cream

By the time you’re 35, your skin needs a high-quality face cream - and a good face cream is also a good eye cream. I use my Doctor Rogers Face Cream on my face, neck, chest and eye area twice a day everyday.

Exception: Oily Skin Types

For people with oily skin who use gel moisturizer, you may benefit from a separate moisturizer for the eye area and neck where we have fewer oil glands and need a heavier product to get results.

Bottom Line on Eye Cream

Most people do not need a separate eye cream. A well-formulated face cream can effectively hydrate the eye area without the added cost.

3. Exosomes, Peptides, and Growth Factor Products

What These Ingredients Are

Not all skincare ingredients are created equal. Level A products - sunscreen, vitamin C, and retinoids or bakuchiol, have the strongest evidence for meaningful, long-term results. Level B products, including peptides, growth factors, and exosomes, may offer minor benefits but lack the same depth of evidence. They are best thought of as optional add-ons, not foundations.

These are among some of the new buzzword ingredients people are spending a fortune on. While they may help our skin a little, they are not comparable to Level A products (read here for a refresher on my ABCs of skincare.)

These are products like Plated and TNS that have ingredients that “talk” to your skin through short amino acid signals to hopefully activate positive changes. The problem is the results from these ingredients are nowhere near as profound as companies claim.

What the Evidence Shows About Peptides and Growth Factors

Yes, there are peptides that can smooth the skin like Argireline (Hexapeptide) found in P-Tiox, or calm the skin like heparin sulfate found in Sente’s Dermal Cream. It is ok to use these products if you already are doing the key steps that make a bigger difference for your skin.

But these expensive options are still only Level B products. There is limited evidence that these ingredients provide meaningful long-term improvement compared to proven Level A products. There is no strong evidence that they activate long-term benefits to the skin like the Level A steps of sunscreen, vitamin C, and night turnover products with retinoids or bakuchiol. Remember, the more steps in a skincare routine, the more common it is for things to go awry. Be empowered to be selective.

Injectable vs Topical Peptides and Growth Factors: What Works Better?

As for now, the data is clear that the injectable version of these ingredients, like using your own platelet-rich plasma (PRP) to promote healing or skin rejuvenation does more for our skin than any of these topical applications.

Bottom Line on Exosomes, Peptides, and Growth Factors

While topical exosomes, peptides and growth factors seem enticing to use, they are not necessary and even as someone who gets them for free, I do not use them. Focus instead on Level A products such as sunscreen, vitamin C, and retinoids or bakuchiol - the ingredients with the strongest evidence for long-term skin improvement. To learn more, check out this blog post on The Skin Editorial “Peptides, Growth Factors, Exosomes and Polynucleotides in Skincare: Are They Worth the Hype?”.

To learn more about my full routine, check out my Dermatologist Skincare Routine blog.

About the Author: Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD

Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD is a double board-certified procedural dermatologist and Mohs surgeon and the co-founder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle, where she sees patients full-time. She is nationally recognized for her expertise in skin health, aging, and skin cancer prevention, and for her clear, evidence-based skincare guidance. Dr. Rogers serves on the American Academy of Dermatology Media Team, the Credo Beauty Council, the Sorette for Motherhood Scientific Advisory Board, and the NewBeauty Brain Trust.

She is the founder of Doctor Rogers Skincare, a dermatologist-developed line reflecting her less-is-more, science-backed approach to healthy skin. Dr. Rogers is a graduate of Stanford University, the University of Washington School of Medicine, and completed her dermatology training at Columbia University Medical Center.

Instagram: @drheatherrogers
Practice: mdinseattle.com
Skincare: doctorrogers.com

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