Peptides, Growth Factors, Exosomes and Polynucleotides in Skincare: Are They Worth the Hype?

Short answer: Not really. As a dermatologist who often receives these products for free, I still choose to not use them in my core routine. They are optional - not foundational.

In the world of skincare, there’s an ever-expanding list of ingredients promising youth, glow, and resilience. While peptides, growth factors, exosomes, and polynucleotides (PDRN) in skincare have become buzzy in recent years, it’s important to put them in perspective. These ingredients are not well studied and while they may help a bit, they’re not heroic. They are no match to proven powerhouses like broad-spectrum sunscreen, retinoids, and well-formulated vitamin C, all of which are well studied and proven to slow the signs of aging in our skin. 

What Are Peptides, Growth Factors, Exosomes, and Polynucleotides?

Think of them as “skin messengers” with different modes of communication. In theory they could support the skin’s repair processes - but the data remains sparse and variable. Let’s break them down. 

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids designed to mimic natural signalling peptides in skin. They’re intended to signal the skin to build collagen, reduce inflammation, or boost hydration. In vitro studies show peptides can stimulate collagen production (Katayama et al., J Biol Chem; 1993 and Pickart et al., J Cosmet Dermatol; 2008). 

Examples include: SkinCeuticals P-Tiox, Medik8 Liquid Peptides.

Growth Factors

Growth factors are larger proteins that encourage cells to grow and heal, often used post-procedure or for aging skin. They come from cultured human, animal or plant cells. Human topical studies suggest improved texture but vary widely (Wu et al., J Cosmet Acad Derm; 2017). 

Examples include: BIOEFFECT EGF Serum, SkinMedica TNS Advanced+.

Exosomes

Exosomes (or extracellular vesicles, EVs) are tiny lipid-membrane bubbles that carry growth factors, peptides, RNAs and other signaling molecules between cells. In skincare, they are cultured from stem cells, platelets or fibroblasts and marketed for regeneration and repair (especially post-procedure).

In a randomized control trial after fractional CO₂, adipose-stem-cell exosome gel improved atrophic acne scars vs control (Kwon et al., Acta Derm Venereol; 2020). 

Regulatory note: In the U.S., no exosome product is FDA-approved. The FDA has issued consumer alerts regarding unapproved exosome/EV therapies.

Polynucleotides (PDRN)

Polynucleotides are fragments of DNA (often salmon-derived) intended to stimulate repair, hydration and elasticity. The strongest data are for injected PDRN/PN in Asia/Europe; topical OTC use is much less studied and not U.S.-approved for injection (Lee et al., Aesthet Surg J Open Forum; 2024).

Examples include: Injectable “skin boosters” like Rejuran®, Nucleofill®, Plinest® (only available outside the U.S.).

Bottom Line: Helpful, Not Heroic

Peptides, growth factors, exosomes and PDRN may support skin health, but they are not as helpful or proven as the foundations of an evidence-based regimen. Sunscreen, retinoids, a well-formulated vitamin C, and a strong skin barrier support still reign supreme. These newer actives can be a fun and expensive addition but they’re not miracle ingredients, and definitely not must-haves. Of note, for post procedure healing, I use PRP because it has more established safety and efficacy data.

Proven Skincare Ingredients You Should Be Using

Daily Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen

Studies have shown that daily use of sunscreen: 

• Prevents and reverses photoaging (Ann Intern Med; 2013)
• Reduces risk of melanoma by ~50% in one study (Green et al., J Clin Oncol; 2011)
• Lowers risk of squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) by ~38% (van der Pols et al., Cancer Epid Biomarkers Prev; 2006)
• Using sunscreen daily over the course of one year improves facial photo-aging (Randhawa et al., J Drugs Dermatol; 2016)

My favorite sunscreens include: Dermaquest, Pavise, Kinship, and The Outset. Check out my contribution in The Wall Street Journal, where I discuss why daily sunscreen use is essential for reducing your risk of skin cancer.

Vitamin C

A potent antioxidant that stimulates collagen production, inhibits brown pigment formation, and supports barrier recovery (Pullar et al., Nutrients; 2017 and Pinnell et al., Dermatol Surg; 2001).

Doctor Rogers Day Preventive Treatment is our antioxidant serum with 10% Vitamin C that helps slow signs of aging by preventing damage, boosting collagen, and brightening skin tone.

Tretinoin / Retinol (Vitamin A Derivatives)

Tretinoin remains the gold standard topical for photoaging, with decades of clinical data showing significant improvement in fine wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, and roughness. Retinol, its over-the-counter cousin, must first convert to retinoic acid in the skin, making it milder but still effective when formulated and stabilized properly.

• A randomized controlled trial showed that nightly use of 0.05% tretinoin for 6 months significantly improved fine wrinkles and hyperpigmentation versus vehicle  (Kligman et al., Arch Dermatol; 1986).
• Long-term studies show that 0.05% tretinoin continues to improve photodamage skin after 12 months, with ongoing increased collagen synthesis. (Kang et al., Am J Clin Dermatol; 2005 and Cho et al., J Am Acad Dermatol; 2005).
• Use of a stabilized 0.1% retinol improved fine wrinkles and elasticity in a 12-week randomized controlled trial (RCT) with less irritation than tretinoin (Kafi et al., Arch Dermatol; 2007).

Bakuchiol

A plant-derived stable antioxidant with retinoid-like effects but with significantly fewer side effects. Bakuchiol is safe to use morning and night. In fact, a split-face, 12-week clinical trial indicated applying bakuchiol 0.5% twice daily was comparable to using a 0.5% retinol in reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with less irritation (Dhaliwal et al., Br J Dermatol 2019).

Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment is a powerful, yet well-tolerated cell turnover treatment with 0.5% bakuchiol, 5% glycolic acid, 5% gluconolactone and antioxidants. It reverses signs of aging, builds collagen, evens skin tone and improves skin texture. Safer for pregnancy, it’s Sorette approved and named ‘Best Retinol Alternative for Pregnancy’ by Vogue.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Niacinamide is one of the most versatile and well-tolerated actives in dermatology. It offers so many benefits, including strengthening the skin barrier, reducing redness, brightening tone, and regulating oil production - all without the irritation seen with stronger actives. More on the benefits below:

• Improves Skin Barrier Function: Strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, reducing water loss and enhancing resilience—especially beneficial for those with sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema (Draelos; Cutis; 2005). 
• Reduces the Appearance of Enlarged Pores: Regular use can visibly minimize enlarged pores, creating a smoother texture (Gehring; J Cosmet Dermatol; 2004).
• Evens Skin Tone: Helps fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots for a more even complexion (Hakozaki; Br J Dermatol; 2002).
• Diminishes Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Boosts collagen production to smooth fine lines and improve firmness (Draelos; Dermatol Surg; 2005).
• Reduces Redness and Irritation: Its anti-inflammatory properties calm irritated, reactive skin (Wu; Front Med (Lausanne); 2022).
• Moisturizes and Brightens: Acts as both a humectant and brightener, improving overall skin radiance (Zheng; Skin Res Technol; 2023).

I recommend using a face cream that includes niacinamide and look for face creams that contain treatment-level concentrations like my Doctor Rogers Face Cream with 4% niacinamide. It was named “Best Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin” by WSJ, “Best Anti-Aging Moisturizer” by Who What Wear and “Best Face Cream for Dry, Aging Skin” by Forbes for its ability to improve mature, sensitive skin. 

If you’re interested in diving deeper on Niacinamide in skincare, I encourage you to read my recent blog post on the topic. 

Centella asiatica (Gotu Kola)

Enhances wound healing, barrier repair, and collagen production. Studies show improved barrier recovery and reduced inflammation (Byun et al., Int J Mol Sci; 2022). And a clinical cream study showed improved hydration and reduced erythema after barrier disruption (Goh et al., J Dermatolog Treat; 2017). My Doctor Rogers Face Cream is formulated with cantella asiatica. 

Bioactive Emollients & Barrier Lipids (instead of petrolatum, mineral oil or dimethicone)

Your skin barrier is your foundation. Emollients, particularly those rich in bioactive lipids, smooth, soften, and reduce inflammation while supporting the microbiome and barrier repair. Examples of these in skincare include:

• Shea Butter: Contains stearic and oleic acids plus triterpene esters with anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair benefits.
• Squalane: A naturally occurring saturated hydrocarbon identical to skin sebum components; non-comedogenic and improves hydration and elasticity.