Doctor Rogers Blog The Skin Editorial

Dermatologist's Guide to Choosing the Right Retinoid for Your Skin Type

By Heather D. Rogers, MD, FAAD, Double Board-Certified Dermatologist


Nightly cell turnover treatments like retinoids, bakuchiol and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) promote smoother, youthful-looking skin by accelerating cell renewal, boosting collagen and addressing common concerns like wrinkles, acne, and hyperpigmentation. However, choosing the right product depends on your skin type, whether you have sensitive, dry, oily, rosacea-prone or acne-prone skin. 

The best product isn't necessarily the strongest one, it's the one your skin can tolerate and the one you'll use consistently. In this guide, I'll share the retinoids and cell turnover products I recommend most often for different skin types and concerns. 

What Are Retinoids and Cell Turnover Ingredients?

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that enhance cell turnover, stimulate collagen and improve skin texture, tone and elasticity. The main difference between retinoids is their strength, how quickly they work and how likely they are to cause irritation. They range from mild (over-the-counter) to potent (prescription):

Ingredient Strength Best For 
Retinyl Palmitate

Mildest. Requires multiple conversions before becoming active.

 Beginners or sensitive skin.
Retinol Moderate strength and widely available over the counter. Aging, mild acne, and improving skin texture.
Retinaldehyde (Retinal) Stronger than retinol and one step from active retinoic acid. Faster results with less irritation than prescription options.
Adapalene Synthetic retinoid available over the counter or by prescription. Acne and anti-aging with lower irritation.
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin) Prescription only and the most potent retinoid. The most studied retinoid. Very effective when tolerated but with the highest risk of irritation.

Retinoid Alternatives:

Not everyone can tolerate a retinoid. Fortunately, other cell turnover ingredients can improve skin texture, tone, and overall skin appearance with less potential for irritation.

Ingredient Benefits Best For
Bakuchiol Plant-derived retinol alternative that has shown retinol-like benefits in some studies. Stimulates collagen and promotes cell turnover with minimal irritation.

Sensitive skin, rosacea, and those looking for a pregnancy-safer alternative.
Glycolic Acid (AHA) Exfoliates dead skin, improves pigmentation and texture, and can help improve skin hydration. Uneven skin tone, rough texture and dull skin.
  Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

Gentle exfoliants, such as gluconolactone, that hydrate and renew skin.

 Sensitive, dry or rosacea-prone skin.

 

With this in mind, here are the products I recommend most often for different skin types and concerns, including 

  • Sensitive or Rosacea Prone
  • Dry and Acne Prone
  • Oily and Acne Prone
  • Mature
  • Acne Scars
  • Hyperpigmentation
  • Combination Skin

Sensitive Skin (including Rosacea)

Needs: Gentle, non-irritating products to promote cell turnover without flaking or triggering redness.

Recommended Products

Tip: Start with a twice-weekly application, paired with Doctor Rogers Face Cream formulated with niacinamide and Centella asiatica to improve tolerability and calm redness. Patch-test active ingredients to ensure compatibility as needed.


Dry and Acne-Prone Skin

Needs: Exfoliating and anti-inflammatory products that promote cell turnover without excessive drying.

Recommended Products

Tip: Apply Doctor Rogers Face Lotion, made with calming, skin-supportive ingredients, after your cell turnover treatment to lock in moisture and help minimize irritation. Start every other night and increase frequency as tolerated.

Oily and Acne-Prone Skin

Needs: Pore-clearing, oil-regulating products to reduce breakouts through cell turnover.

Recommended Products

  • SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0 ($102): High-potency retinol for experienced users looking to tackle acne and texture.
  • The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane ($6–$10): Budget-friendly retinol for mild acne and oil control. 
  • Prescription Tretinoin (0.025%–0.1%, price varies): The most studied prescription retinoid for acne and one of the most effective options when tolerated. 

Tip: Pair with Doctor Rogers Face Lotion, a non-comedogenic moisturizer, to help prevent dryness. Use a gentle cleanser to maintain your skin barrier and help balance excess oil. 

Mature Skin

Needs: Cell turnover products to promote collagen and reduce signs of aging.

Recommended Products

Tip: Start your cell turnover product 2 to 3 times per week and increase frequency as tolerated. Apply Doctor Rogers Face Cream afterward to enhance hydration and minimize irritation. If additional moisture is needed, apply Doctor Rogers Restore Healing Balm over your moisturizer to help seal in hydration and improve tolerability. 

Acne Scars

Needs: Products that promote collagen and resurface skin to reduce scar appearance through cell turnover.

Recommended Products

Tip: Pair with a Vitamin C serum, such as Doctor Rogers Day Preventive Treatment, to lighten red and brown spots and follow with a moisturizer and mineral SPF 30+ daily to protect skin and prevent scar darkening. For deeper acne scars, professional treatments such as laser resurfacing or chemical peels may provide additional improvement. 

Hyperpigmentation

Needs: Cell turnover ingredients to fade dark spots and even skin tone, with caution for darker skin to avoid irritation-induced pigmentation.

Recommended Products

Tip: Use a vitamin C serum in the morning, such as Doctor Rogers Day Preventive Treatment, followed by Doctor Rogers Face Cream and SPF 30+ to help prevent dark spots from becoming more noticeable. Start slow to avoid irritation, which can worsen pigmentation. 

Combination Skin

Needs: Cell turnover products to balance oil control in the T-zone with hydration for dry areas.

Recommended Products


Tip:  Apply a thick layer of your cell turnover product on oily areas and follow with a thick layer of moisturizer on dry patches. Start every other night, adjusting frequency based on your skin's response.

How to Use Retinol and Cell Turnover Products

Morning Routine:

  1. If you have sensitive skin, a water rinse may be sufficient. If you have oily skin, cleanse with a gentle fragrance-free cleanser. 
  2. Apply vitamin C serum for brightening and antioxidant protection.
  3. Bakuchiol and glycolic acid can also be used in the morning and night on normal and oily skin if tolerated. 
  4. Moisturize.
  5. Apply mineral SPF 30+ (retinoids increase sun sensitivity).

Night Routine:

  1. Cleanse gently.
  2. Apply a pea-sized amount of product, avoiding eyes, nose and mouth corners.
  3. Follow with a rich moisturizer to lock in hydration and reduce irritation.

Start Slowly

Whatever you choose, ease in gradually. Start twice weekly and build up over several weeks as tolerated. For the complete week-by-week protocol, read my Step-by-Step Guide to Starting a Retinoid.

Managing Side Effects

Most side effects from retinoids and other cell turnover products can be managed by adjusting how often you use them or switching to a gentler product. 

Side Effect What to Do
Mild irritation (redness, peeling) Reduce frequency, use more moisturizer, or buffer with a moisturizer before applying.
Purging (temporary breakouts) Common with acne-prone skin. Typically subsides in 4 to 6 weeks.
Severe irritation Pause use, restart with less product or less frequent application, or switch to a milder option, such as bakuchiol.
 Hyperpigmentation risk Darker skin tones should start with lower strengths and use SPF diligently to help avoid irritation-induced pigmentation.

Why I Formulated Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment

I recommend Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment throughout this guide because it offers a well-tolerated approach to cell turnover for many skin types. I formulated Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment as a retinol-free option built around 0.5% bakuchiol, 5% glycolic acid, and gluconolactone. I recommend it often in this guide, so I want to be direct about how and why I formulated this product the way I did.

Bakuchiol has research behind it: in a clinical trial, 0.5% bakuchiol used twice daily produced comparable improvement to 0.5% retinol used once daily, with less skin stinging and irritation. In addition to being well tolerated, bakuchiol is more stable than retinol when exposed to light and air and I wanted a product that would maintain its effectiveness. 

Lastly, bakuchiol carries its own antioxidant benefit distinct from retinol. Research shows it helps protect skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage, a mechanism separate from its cell-turnover effects.

At 5%, the glycolic acid in this formula is backed by a placebo-controlled clinical trial showing meaningful improvement in skin texture and discoloration. I included gluconolactone, a well-established PHA, for additional gentle exfoliation and barrier support as it is generally better tolerated than stronger acids. Night Repair Treatment has also been recognized by publications including Vogue, GQ, and Forbes for its formulation and approach to gentle skin renewal. 

My Night Repair Treatment is designed for people who want the benefits of a cell turnover product with a lower risk of irritation than a retinoid. It combines bakuchiol, glycolic acid and gluconolactone to promote cell turnover while remaining well tolerated. Apply it at night to clean, dry skin, then follow with Doctor Rogers Face Cream. If your skin tolerates it well, it can also be used in the morning after Doctor Rogers Day Preventive Treatment and before your moisturizer and sunscreen.  

If you have thick, oily, acne-prone skin and you tolerate tretinoin well, it is a better-studied option, and I encourage my patients  to use it.

Final Tips for Success

  • Be Consistent: Cell turnover products take time to work. Most people notice results after 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use. 
  • Sunscreen is Non-Negotiable: Wear everyday to protect your skin and prevent further sun damage.
  • Listen to Your Skin: Adjust frequency or switch products if irritation persists.
  • Consult a Dermatologist: Ask about prescription options, such as tretinoin, hydroquinone or personalized advice, especially if you have rosacea or severe acne.

About the Author: Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD

Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD is a double board-certified procedural dermatologist and Mohs surgeon and the co-founder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle, where she sees patients full-time. She is nationally recognized for her expertise in skin health, aging, and skin cancer prevention, and for her clear, evidence-based skincare guidance. Dr. Rogers serves on the American Academy of Dermatology Media Team, the Credo Beauty Council, the Sorette for Motherhood Scientific Advisory Board, and the NewBeauty Brain Trust.

She is the founder of Doctor Rogers Skincare, a dermatologist-developed line reflecting her less-is-more, science-backed approach to healthy skin. Dr. Rogers is a graduate of Stanford University, the University of Washington School of Medicine, and completed her dermatology training at Columbia University Medical Center.

Instagram: @drheatherrogers
Practice: mdinseattle.com
Skincare: doctorrogers.com

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All product recommendations on this site are not sponsored and reflect the independent opinion of Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD, based on her evidence-based research and extensive clinical experience as a practicing dermatologist. Links are provided for your convenience. Some may include discounts or commissions. Please shop wherever works best for you.

The content on doctorrogers.com and our social media channels - including articles, blogs, videos, newsletters, and linked resources - is intended for general educational purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice, establish a doctor-patient relationship, or replace consultation with your physician. Use of this information and any recommended products is at your own risk and signifies your agreement with our Terms and Conditions. Nothing shared is intended to diagnose or treat specific medical conditions.

References

1. Thibault PK, Wlodarczyk J, Wenck A. A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol Surg. 1998;24(5):573-578. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9598014/

2. Bluemke A, Ring AP, Immeyer J, et al. Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing, experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022;44(3):377-393. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35514037/

3. Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/

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