Bakuchiol vs Retinol: A Gentler Retinol Alternative for Sensitive Skin

 

By Heather D. Rogers, MD, FAAD, Double Board-Certified Dermatologist

Bakuchiol is a plant-based retinol alternative shown in clinical trials to produce comparable anti-aging results with less irritation. Like retinoids, bakuchiol helps improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and support collagen production. However, bakuchiol typically causes less irritation, redness, and peeling, making it appealing for people who cannot tolerate traditional vitamin A derivatives.

Why Evening Cell Turnover Treatments Matter

Night turnover treatments are an important part of any dermatologist-recommended skincare routine. By encouraging skin cell turnover, they speed the transition from old skin cells to new, giving skin a brighter, smoother appearance. These powerful serums help

• Reduce wrinkles
• Improve tone
• Correct sun damage
• Smooth skin’s texture
• Target acne

What Are Retinoids 

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives widely used to treat acne, boost cell turnover, correct and reduce signs of aging. Common examples include prescription tretinoin and over-the-counter retinol.  

In 1943, the first study on retinoic acid for acne treatment was published. Retinoic acid, a derivative of vitamin A, was groundbreaking. Since then, numerous topical vitamin A formulations have been developed, collectively known as retinoids. 

Benefits of Retinoids

Retinoids are well-studied and proven to

• Boost cell turnover
• Correct sun damage
• Unclog pores
• Improve skin texture
  

Common Side Effects of Retinoids

Potential negative side effects may include

• Skin Irritation
• Redness and Peeling
• Increased sensitivity to sunlight
• Reduced stability when exposed to air or light 

They’re also not recommended for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding due to the association of birth defects with high vitamin A levels when taken orally.

What Are the Main Types of Retinoids?

Retinyl Palmitate (Least Strong)

This needs conversion to retinol, then retinaldehyde, and finally retinoic acid to be active in the skin. Also known as vitamin A palmitate, it is the mildest derivative of retinoic acid and can be used as an antioxidant in skin care. Despite bad press in recent years, it is quite safe. It is found naturally in our skin and is the most common form of vitamin A storage in mammals.

Retinol (Stronger)

This converts to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. Retinol is one of the most popular over-the-counter options, available in strengths from 0.01% to 1%. It’s less irritating than prescription retinoids but still well studied, boasting many benefits to the skin.

Retinaldehyde (Even Stronger)

Also known as retinal, it requires only one conversion step to become retinoic acid. Thought to be tolerated equally well to retinol despite being possibly stronger.

Retinoic Acid (Strongest)

Also known as tretinoin (e.g., Altreno, Atralin, Retin-A), this is the active form that binds directly to skin receptors (Retinoic Acid Receptor and Retinoid X Receptor). It is the most studied and most irritating form. 

Who Should Avoid Retinol?

Retinol can be irritating for people with very sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema. It is best to start with a low percentage a few nights a week and always follow with a moisturizer, such as Doctor Rogers Face Cream to support the skin barrier.  

Even with careful use, there are some people who cannot tolerate retinol because of persistent irritation, redness or peeling (sometimes called retinoid dermatitis). 

Retinoids should also be avoided:

• On healing skin
• Immediately after a skin procedure
• When planning to spend extended time in the sun without sunscreen

For those who can tolerate retinol, see my step-by-step guide to starting a retinoid. Not sure which product is right for your skin type? Check my recommendations by skin type.

 

Is Retinol Safe During Pregnancy or Breastfeeding?

Retinol and other topical retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. High levels of vitamin A taken orally, such as isotretinoin (Accutane) are known to cause birth defects.

Pregnancy also increases skin sensitivity, further increasing the risk of irritation. As topical retinoids have not been extensively studied in pregnant women, the American Academy of Dermatology supports these precautions. 

Gentle Alternatives to Retinol

Retinol is not the right choice for everyone. Many people with sensitive skin experience irritation, redness or peeling when using vitamin A derivatives. 

Fortunately, there are ingredients that can improve skin tone and texture in similar ways with less irritation. One of the most promising alternatives is bakuchiol. 

Bakuchiol: A Plant-Derived Retinol Alternative

Bakuchiol is not a retinoid and does not bind retinoic acid receptors. Instead, it produces similar effects on the skin through a different mechanism, upregulating collagen genes and supporting cell turnover.

Derived from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), bakuchiol also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it appealing for people with sensitive skin, and tends to cause less irritation than retinol.

Key Advantages of Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol offers several advantages compared with retinol

• Comparable Effectiveness: In a 12-week randomized, double-blind clinical trial of 44 participants, 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice daily produced a 20% reduction in wrinkle severity, with 59% of participants seeing improvement in hyperpigmentation by week 12, compared to 44% in the retinol group. Because that trial used bakuchiol at twice the frequency of retinol, it shows bakuchiol can match retinol's results, not that it matches them at the same dose.
• Stable in Sunlight: Bakuchiol is more stable than retinol under light and air exposure, meaning products built around it tend to hold their effectiveness better over time.
• Better tolerated: Clinical studies show retinol caused more stinging and facial skin scaling than bakuchiol.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory make it a great choice for sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema.
• Independent antioxidant benefit: Separate from its cell-turnover effects, research shows bakuchiol helps protect skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage.

Most people see visible improvement in texture and hyperpigmentation with consistent bakuchiol use by around 12 weeks, in line with clinical trial timelines.

Bakuchiol is also considered a safer alternative to retinol during pregnancy or breastfeeding, though this has not been studied in clinical trials.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is a powerful and well-tolerated chemical exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells, improve skin tone, and boost hydration. It is the most effective and well-researched of the AHAs, offering numerous benefits:

• Cell Turnover: Increases cell turnover, prevents skin thinning and improves fine lines.
• Hyperpigmentation: Helps fade dark spots and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
• Acne: Helps clear comedonal acne (whiteheads and blackheads).
• Hydration Support: Boosts hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.

At 5%, glycolic acid has been shown in a placebo-controlled clinical trial to meaningfully improve skin texture and discoloration.

Other Forms of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids)

Mandelic acid is a larger AHA molecule than glycolic acid, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly. That slower penetration is why it's generally better tolerated on sensitive and acne-prone skin, with a lower risk of irritation than smaller-molecule acids. Lactic acid and gluconolactone are gentler still, offering mild exfoliation and hydration of the top layers of the skin, leaving it plump and smooth.

A Retinol-Free Night Repair Treatment

Based on all this research and conversations with thousands of my patients about their night turnover needs, I decided to develop Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment, a retinol-free overnight treatment designed to reverse signs of aging through improved skin texture, tone and support the building of collagen, all while remaining tolerable for sensitive skin. 

Active ingredients include

• 0.5% Bakuchiol: Helps stimulate collagen production, diminish wrinkles, improve elasticity, and smooth texture with less irritation than retinol.
• 5% Glycolic Acid: The most effective and well-researched form of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that removes dead skin cells, helps improve discoloration, activates cell turnover and increase hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.
• 5% Gluconolactone: A gentle polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and humectant that exfoliates to plump skin and improve tone and texture for a glass-like finish.

These actives are delivered in a hydrating, skin-supportive formula built with squalane and glycerin to support the skin barrier and improve tolerability for sensitive skin. 

If you have thick, oily, acne-prone skin and tolerate tretinoin well, it is a better-studied option, and I encourage my patients who tolerate it to use it.

Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment has been recognized by Vogue as the Best Retinol Alternative During Pregnancy (2024), by GQ with a Sleep Award (2024), and by Blue-Print as one of the Best Men's Grooming Products of All Time.

How to Use Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment

Follow these steps to introduce the treatment safely

1.  Apply at night to clean, bare skin.
   
2.  Follow with Doctor Rogers Face Cream to lock in hydration and support the skin barrier.
   
3. Once tolerated well, it can be used twice a day, applying it in the morning after a Day Preventive Treatment and before face cream and sunscreen.
   
4. Introduce gradually and remain consistent, since cell turnover and texture improvement take time to become visible.

No matter what you choose for your repair treatment, cell turnover, exfoliation for sun damage correction and texture improvement all take time and consistency before you see results. For the full week-by-week protocol on introducing any of these safely, see my Step-by-Step Guide to Starting a Retinoid, and for guidance on which moisturizer fits your skin type, see How to Moisturize Your Skin the Right Way.

 

About the Author: Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD

Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD is a double board-certified procedural dermatologist and Mohs surgeon and the co-founder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle, where she sees patients full-time. She is nationally recognized for her expertise in skin health, aging, and skin cancer prevention, and for her clear, evidence-based skincare guidance. Dr. Rogers serves on the American Academy of Dermatology Media Team, the Credo Beauty Council, the Sorette for Motherhood Scientific Advisory Board, and the NewBeauty Brain Trust.

She is the founder of Doctor Rogers Skincare, a dermatologist-developed line reflecting her less-is-more, science-backed approach to healthy skin. Dr. Rogers is a graduate of Stanford University, the University of Washington School of Medicine, and completed her dermatology training at Columbia University Medical Center.

Instagram: @drheatherrogers
Practice: mdinseattle.com
Skincare: doctorrogers.com

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The content on doctorrogers.com and our social media channels - including articles, blogs, videos, newsletters, and linked resources - is intended for general educational purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice, establish a doctor-patient relationship, or replace consultation with your physician. Use of this information and any recommended products is at your own risk and signifies your agreement with our Terms and Conditions. Nothing shared is intended to diagnose or treat specific medical conditions.

References

1. Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/
2. Bluemke A, Ring AP, Immeyer J, et al. Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing, experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022;44(3):377-393. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35514037/
3. Thibault PK, Wlodarczyk J, Wenck A. A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol Surg. 1998;24(5):573-578. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9598014/
4. Dębowska RM, Kaszuba A, Michalak I, et al. Evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of mandelic acid-containing cosmetic formulations for acne skin care. Dermatology Review/Przegląd Dermatologiczny. 2015;102(4):316-321. https://doi.org/10.5114/dr.2015.53419