Dermatologist's Guide to Your Best Skin

Sunscreen Guide 2025: Dermatologist Recommended Essentials

 

Sunscreen should be part of your daily skincare routine—but that doesn’t mean it has to be unpleasant. With summer approaching, now is the perfect time to evaluate your sunscreen strategy. The goal is to protect your skin from the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays, which accelerate aging and increase your risk of skin cancer. To do that, wearing sunscreen consistently is key. And consistency starts with finding a sunscreen you like. I’m here to help you do just that.

This dermatologist-backed guide breaks down how to evaluate, choose and use sunscreen as part of a comprehensive sun-safe strategy. Let’s begin with this: any sunscreen is better than no sunscreen—even amid the controversies we’ll touch on below.

What Does SPF Mean?

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It measures how much solar energy (UV radiation) is required to produce sunburn on protected skin versus unprotected skin. For example, SPF 50 means it takes 50 times longer to burn with sunscreen than without—but this doesn’t account for how sunscreen degrades once applied.

SPF only measures protection from UVB rays (the ones responsible for sunburn and DNA damage). UVA rays penetrate deeper, causing wrinkles, discoloration, and contributing to skin cancer. That’s why you should look for products labeled "broad spectrum," which protect against both UVA and UVB.

Don't chase the highest SPF number. Instead, choose an SPF of at least 30, make sure it's broad spectrum, and—most importantly—reapply every two hours when outdoors.

Here’s what SPF values mean:

  • SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UVB rays
  • SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays
  • SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays

Most people don’t apply enough sunscreen to reach these protection levels. That’s another reason the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends SPF 30 or higher.

What Does PA++ Mean?

PA stands for Protection Grade of UVA, a system created in Asia to indicate UVA protection. More plus signs = better protection.

  • PA+ = 2–4 UVA-PF (50–75% protection)
  • PA++ = 4–8 UVA-PF (75–88%)
  • PA+++ = 8–16 UVA-PF (88–94%)
  • PA++++ = 16+ UVA-PF (94%+)

This system helps consumers understand UVA protection beyond just “broad spectrum.”

What About Water Resistance?

If you’re swimming or sweating, you’ll need a water-resistant sunscreen. The FDA tests and classifies products as either:

  • 40 minutes water-resistant
  • 80 minutes water-resistant

Those are the only two labels allowed. Even if a sunscreen lasts longer, "waterproof" is no longer permitted on labels. Regardless of water resistance, you must reapply regularly, especially after swimming or towel-drying.

Three General Classes of Sunscreen

Sunscreens are categorized by their active ingredients, which can be chemical, mineral (physical) or a combination of both.

Chemical Sunscreens

Active ingredients: Avobenzone, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Oxybenzone, Octinoxate.

Chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin and convert UV radiation into heat. They often feel lighter and blend in more easily, which is why they’re called cosmetically elegant. However, these ingredients may be absorbed into the bloodstream. A 2019 study in JAMA revealed that systemic levels were higher than previously thought—we still don’t know the full implications of this. The FDA is requesting more data to assess long-term safety.

Environmental concerns are also mounting. These chemicals, especially oxybenzone, are being detected in waterways and may affect ecosystems.

Mineral (Physical) Sunscreens

Active ingredients: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide.

Mineral sunscreens sit on top of the skin and physically block or scatter UV rays. They also absorb UV, but less than chemical filters. Zinc oxide offers broad spectrum protection, while titanium dioxide is better at blocking UVB.

These are Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE) by the FDA. They're ideal for sensitive skin, pregnancy and children, and they’re more photostable than chemical filters. Downsides? They can leave a white cast and sometimes feel thicker.

Combination Sunscreens

These formulas contain both chemical and physical UV blockers. Recently, some products labeled "100% mineral" have included non-FDA-regulated chemical filters to boost SPF and improve texture.

Sunscreen Doping

Some sunscreen brands add non-regulated chemical filters to mineral formulas without clearly disclosing them. This practice—often referred to as sunscreen doping—uses chemical compounds similar to regulated UV filters, but not officially listed as active ingredients in the U.S.

Ingredients to watch for

  • Butyloctyl salicylate (similar to octisalate)
  • Ethyl ferulate (similar to octocrylene)
  • Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (similar to octinoxate)
  • Tridecyl salicylate (similar to octisalate)

These ingredients may appear in sunscreens marketed as "100% mineral." If you're trying to avoid chemical UV filters, read the full ingredient list, not just the label claims.

What Do "Natural" and "Organic" Mean?

These are marketing terms, not FDA-regulated definitions.

  • Natural typically refers to mineral sunscreens with plant-based ingredients.
  • Organic means the chemical structure is carbon-based—not “clean” or “chemical-free.”
  • Non-toxic is unregulated but often associated with mineral-only formulas.

Reef-Safe Sunscreens

Reef-safe sunscreens avoid chemical UV filters, particularly oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are linked to coral bleaching and reef harm. Mineral-based sunscreens are generally considered reef-safe.

EWG Verified Sunscreens

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) rates sunscreens based on safety and transparency. Products with the EWG Verified badge:

  • Cannot be sprays or powders (to avoid inhalation risk)
  • Must have SPF between 15–50
  • Cannot use misleading claims like "sunblock," "sweatproof," or "waterproof"

How to Pick the Right Sunscreen for You

Again: the best sunscreen is the one you will actually use.

I personally choose zinc-based sunscreens for myself and my family. I recommend mineral formulas for pregnancy and sensitive skin. If you have oily or darker skin, a non-chalky chemical sunscreen may feel better and blend more easily.

If you are looking for the best sunscreens for sensitive skin, check out my recent feature in Harper's BAZAAR's "The 9 Best Suncreens for Sensitive Skin, According to Dermatologists." 

My Favorite Sunscreens

Chemical Sunscreens
Combination Sunscreens
Mineral Sunscreens

What I Use

It depends on my plans.

Workday
High UV days (beach/boat)
For face on sunny/vacation days
  • SkinBetter (tinted or sheer) for long-wear, water-resistant protection.

I also use vitamin C daily, and when vacationing in sunny climates, I apply my Day Preventive Treatment with 10% vitamin C both morning and night. I pause my night treatment during these periods.

Additionally, I take oral Polypodium Leucotomos for added protection—brands I recommend include ISDIN and Heliocare.

How to Incorporate Sunscreen Into Your Daily Routine

Sunscreen is not seasonal—wear it year-round. Here’s how:

  1. Start with a vitamin C serum.
  2. Add moisturizer (if your skin is dry).
  3. Apply sunscreen—pay attention to areas most exposed to and perpendicular to the sun.
  4. Add makeup if desired.

Tips on How to use Sunscreen Properly 

  • Use 1/4 teaspoon for your face (nickel-sized amount)
  • Use 1 ounce (a shot glass) for your whole body
  • Reapply every 2 hours, or sooner if swimming, sweating or toweling off
  • Don’t rely just on makeup or powders with SPF alone—they don’t offer enough coverage or durability

Remember: sunscreen is just one piece of sun safety. Wear hats, polarized sunglasses, long-sleeve clothing and seek shade during peak hours.

You can read more about sun-safe lifestyle strategies here.

Chemical Sunscreen Concerns

There are a large number of animal studies showing the endocrine system can be disrupted by the chemical UV-filters in sunscreens, but human studies have not confirmed these findings. To help minimize the risk of possible side effects, the FDA limits on how much of these ingredients can be used in a formulation of sunscreen. The current chemical sunscreens regulated in the US include azobenzene, octisalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, and octinoxate.  Concerns reported with each of these ingredients are outlined below. 

Benzophenone derivatives (e.g. Oxybenzone, Avobenzone, Benzophenone): These chemicals are often used in sunscreens to absorb UV radiation. Some research suggests that benzophenone derivatives may have hormone-disrupting effects, particularly on thyroid hormone activity. There is also concern it is contributing to the bleaching of coral reefs

Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate): Another common ingredient in sunscreens, octinoxate has been found to have estrogenic activity in some studies, raising concerns about its potential impact on hormonal balance and possibly contributing to the bleaching of coral reefs

Octocrylene has been found to accumulate in our blood, urine and breast milk. In animal studies, it showed neurotoxicity and progesterone mimicking effects.

Octisalate has been identified as an endocrine disruptor in studies on human sperm cells. 

Here is a snippet from a recent review article in the International Journal of Dermatology on the topic:

Recent evidence of high systemic absorption of sunscreen ingredients has raised concerns regarding the safety of sunscreen products. Oxybenzone (BP-3) and octinoxate (OMC), two common sunscreens.  Their impact on human health requires a careful assessment.
There are 29 studies that address the impact of these ingredients on human health. Studies show that elevated systemic level of BP-3 has no adverse effect on male and female fertility, female reproductive hormone level, adiposity, fetal growth, child’s neurodevelopment and sexual maturation.  However, the association of BP-3 level on thyroid hormone, testosterone level, kidney function and pubertal timing has been reported and prompts further investigations to validate a true association.  The systemic absorption of OMC has no reported effect on thyroid and reproductive hormone levels. 

My take way: the risk is low from using chemical sunscreens, but I still choose to use mineral based sunscreens. 

Recent Controversy Regarding “Doping” Mineral Sunscreens

Historically, both types of UV blockers (chemical and physical) were highlighted on the active ingredient list, but more recently, a somewhat controversial step of sunscreen "doping" is happening where chemical blockers are being included in mineral sunscreens that are nearly identical to the regulated chemical filters but are not being disclosed because they are not regulated in the US and do not have to be highlighted as an active ingredient. On most occasions, it allows lower percentages of mineral UV blockers (zinc and titanium) to be in the formulation, which has the appeal of making them more cosmetically elegant while still being marketed under the guise as a 100% mineral sunscreen. Many of these chemical ingredients are nearly identical to ones that are classified as chemical UV filters in chemical sunscreens. Many are also being regulated in the EU, but not the US.    

In addition to being sneaky, this behavior could increase the risks associated with sunscreen because the amount of these chemical UV blockers being used is not regulated. For example, as of June 2022 the FDA only allowed octisalate to be present at 5% in a chemical sunscreen.  However, the chemical butyloctyl salicylate, which is nearly identical, can be used at whatever percentage because it isn’t regulated.  

The most common ingredients to look for in this ‘doping’ process include butyloctyl salicylate (nearly identical to octisalate), ethyl ferulate (similar to octocrylene), diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (similar to octinoxate) and tridecyl salicylate (similar to octisalate). 

The take home point is that if you are trying to avoid chemical sunscreens, you have to read the labels and look for these ingredients even if the sunscreen says it is 100% mineral! Mineral sunscreens are safe during pregnancy but also for rosacea patients and those with sensitive skin. Zinc is anti-inflammatory and a natural skin protectant so it often helps with these conditions. 

You can read more on “sunscreen doping” at Lab Muffin Beauty Science. 

 All product recommendations on this site are not sponsored and reflect the independent opinion of Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD, based on her evidence-based research and extensive clinical experience as a practicing dermatologist. Links are provided for your convenience. Some may include discounts or commissions. Please shop wherever works best for you.

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The content on doctorrogers.com and our social media channels - including articles, blogs, videos, newsletters, and linked resources - is intended for general educational purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice, establish a doctor-patient relationship, or replace consultation with your physician. Use of this information and any recommended products is at your own risk and signifies your agreement with our Terms and Conditions. Nothing shared is intended to diagnose or treat specific medical practice.

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