Niacinamide in Skincare

Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is a skincare ingredient that has gained significant attention for its versatility and effectiveness. But what exactly is niacinamide, and why is it a must-have in skincare routines? Let’s walk through everything you need to know – from its benefits to how to use it effectively.

What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. While it’s naturally found in foods like green vegetables, cereals, sesame seeds, and turkey, the niacinamide used in skincare is typically a bioidentical synthetic form. This ingredient is celebrated for its ability to improve various skin concerns, making it a powerful addition to any skincare routine.

What Are the Benefits of Niacinamide for Skin?

 

Niacinamide offers a wide range of benefits, making it a comprehensive anti-aging and skin-restoring ingredient.

Improves Skin Barrier Function: Strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, reducing water loss and enhancing resilience—especially beneficial for those with sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema (Draelos; Cutis; 2005). 

Reduces the Appearance of Enlarged Pores: Regular use can visibly minimize enlarged pores, creating a smoother texture (Gehring; J Cosmet Dermatol; 2004).

Evens Skin Tone: Helps fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots for a more even complexion (Hakozaki; Br J Dermatol; 2002).

Diminishes Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Boosts collagen production to smooth fine lines and improve firmness (Draelos; Dermatol Surg; 2005).

Reduces Redness and Irritation: Its anti-inflammatory properties calm irritated, reactive skin (Wu; Front Med (Lausanne); 2022).

Moisturizes and Brightens: Acts as both a humectant and brightener, improving overall skin radiance (Zheng; Skin Res Technol; 2023).

What Skin Types Can Use Niacinamide?

One of niacinamide’s standout qualities is its compatibility with nearly all skin types:

Sensitive Skin: Soothes irritation and strengthens the barrier.

Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: Balances oil production and reduces pore size.

Dry Skin: Improves hydration and barrier integrity.

Combination Skin: Normalizes oil and moisture levels across zones.

Aging Skin: Supports collagen synthesis and improves elasticity.

Because of its versatility, niacinamide is a great addition to nearly any skincare routine - whether your goal is to soothe, hydrate, or brighten.

How to Use Niacinamide in Your Skincare Routine

As you know, I’m not a fan of complex, multi-step routines, but niacinamide is one of my favorite ingredients to include. I recommend finding a face cream that already includes niacinamide rather than adding a separate step. Look for face creams that contain treatment-level concentrations of niacinamide like my Doctor Rogers Face Cream (4% niacinamide). It was named “Best Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin” by WSJ, “Best Anti-Aging Moisturizer” by Who What Wear and “Best Face Cream for Dry, Aging Skin” by Forbes for its ability to improve mature, sensitive skin. Stay away from standalone serums, often with higher concentrations as higher levels can increase irritation risk. Start low, especially if you have sensitive skin.

What Percentage of Niacinamide is Best?

Niacinamide is effective at concentrations as low as 2%, and most clinical studies demonstrating barrier and tone improvements use between 2% and 5%. While higher concentrations (up to 10-20%) are marketed for faster results, more is not always better – especially for sensitive skin. Even 5% formulations can occasionally cause transient stinging, redness, or flushing in those with a weakened skin barrier (Gehring; J Cosmet Dermatol; 2004). I recommend 2-4%, which provides excellent results with minimal risk of irritation. 

Potential Side Effects and Allergies

Niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, even by those with sensitive skin. Rarely, some individuals experience mild redness or irritation – especially with higher concentrations or overuse. While niacinamide is one of the most well-tolerated skincare ingredients available, true allergic reactions can occur, though they are rare. Contact allergy to niacinamide itself occurs in fewer than 1% of patch-tested patients. Most reactions stem not from the niacinamide molecule but from its breakdown to nicotinic acid, which can cause warmth, redness, or flushing (Gehring; J Cosmet Dermatol; 2004). If you develop persistent redness or itching after using a niacinamide product, discontinue use and consult your dermatologist.

Can Niacinamide Be Used with Other Skincare Ingredients?

Yes. Niacinamide pairs well with retinol, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. In fact, its soothing properties can help reduce irritation caused by stronger actives (Wu; Front Med (Lausanne); 2022). This is one of the many reasons I recommend using my Doctor Rogers Face Cream and Doctor Rogers Face Lotion after the application of morning or evening actives. They both have 4% niacinamide to support the skin and decrease the risk of irritation.  

Oral Niacinamide and Skin Cancer Prevention

Beyond topical use, oral niacinamide has shown remarkable promise in skin cancer prevention.

Clinical research, including the ONTRAC (Oral Nicotinamide to Reduce Actinic Cancer) trial (Chen; N Engl J Med; 2015), demonstrated that taking nicotinamide 500 mg twice daily reduced the incidence of new non-melanoma skin cancers by approximately 23% in high-risk individuals with a history of skin cancer.

Nicotinamide supports DNA repair after UV damage and reduces immunosuppression caused by sun exposure. Importantly, it is non-flushing (unlike niacin) and generally well-tolerated.

While it is not a replacement for sunscreen or routine skin exams, oral nicotinamide is a safe and evidence-based supplement dermatologists often recommend for patients with multiple actinic keratoses or prior basal or squamous cell carcinomas.

Final Thoughts

Niacinamide is a multitasking ingredient that improves barrier strength, reduces inflammation, evens tone, and supports long-term skin health. Whether applied topically or taken orally under medical guidance, it’s one of the best-researched and most beneficial ingredients for healthy, resilient skin.