What is bakuchiol and what does it do for skin?

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient sourced from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). It helps stimulate collagen production and cell turnover, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin tone and texture, and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties — making it particularly suitable for sensitive skin.

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

Yes. A 12-week, prospective, randomized, double-blind clinical study comparing 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol found similar improvements in wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. However, retinol users experienced significantly more irritation, stinging, and facial skin scaling than those using bakuchiol.

Is bakuchiol safe to use during pregnancy or breastfeeding?

Unlike retinol and other retinoids, bakuchiol is not a vitamin A derivative and is generally considered a safer option during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Traditional retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy due to the association of high vitamin A intake with birth defects. However, always consult your healthcare provider before adding any new skincare ingredient during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

What is the difference between bakuchiol and retinol?

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, boosting cell turnover and collagen production. Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient that works through similar pathways — including retinoic acid receptors — to deliver comparable anti-aging benefits. The key difference is tolerability: bakuchiol causes less irritation, redness, and peeling than retinol and is stable in sunlight, making it a better choice for people with sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema.

Who should use bakuchiol instead of retinol?

Bakuchiol is a good alternative for people who have sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema; those who experience persistent irritation, redness, or peeling (retinol dermatitis) from vitamin A derivatives; those who are pregnant or breastfeeding; and those using skin that is healing or recovering after a procedure. It delivers similar anti-aging and skin-texture benefits with a significantly lower risk of irritation.

Can you use bakuchiol during the day?

Yes. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is stable in air and sunlight and does not increase sun sensitivity. This means it can be used in both morning and evening routines. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is still recommended as part of any anti-aging skincare routine.

What ingredients work well with bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol pairs well with glycolic acid (an AHA that boosts cell turnover and fades hyperpigmentation), gluconolactone (a gentle polyhydroxy acid that exfoliates and hydrates), squalane (a skin-barrier supporting emollient), and glycerin (a humectant that draws moisture into the skin). These combinations can enhance anti-aging and texture benefits while keeping the formula tolerable for sensitive skin.

How long does it take to see results from bakuchiol?

Clinical studies measuring bakuchiol's effects have typically used a 12-week timeframe, at which point improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and skin texture were measurable. As with any cell turnover treatment, consistency is key — most users notice gradual improvements in tone and texture within 4 to 8 weeks of regular use.

Bakuchiol vs Retinol: A Gentler Retinol Alternative for Sensitive Skin

By Heather D. Rogers, MD, FAAD, Double Board-Certified Dermatologist

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived skincare ingredient often used as a gentler alternative to retinol for sensitive skin. Like retinoids, bakuchiol helps improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and support collagen production. However, bakuchiol typically causes less irritation, redness, and peeling, making it appealing for people who cannot tolerate traditional vitamin A derivatives.

Why Evening Cell Turnover Treatments Matter

Night turnover treatments are an important part of any dermatologist-recommended skincare routine. By encouraging skin cell turnover, they speed the transition from old skin cells to new, giving skin a brighter, smoother appearance. These powerful serums help

Reduce wrinkles
Improve tone
Correct sun damage
Smooth skin’s texture
Target acne

What Are Retinoids

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives widely used to treat acne, boost cell turnover, correct and reduce signs of aging. Common examples include prescription tretinoin and over-the-counter retinol.

In 1943, the first study on retinoic acid for acne treatment was published. Retinoic acid, a derivative of vitamin A, was groundbreaking. Since then, numerous topical vitamin A formulations have been developed, collectively known as retinoids.

Benefits of Retinoids

Retinoids are well-studied and proven to

Boost cell turnover
Correct sun damage
Unclog pores
Improve skin texture

Common Side Effects of Retinoids

Potential negative side effects may include

Skin Irritation
Redness and Peeling
Increased sensitivity to sunlight
Reduced stability when exposed to air or light

They’re also not recommended for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding due to the association of birth defects with high vitamin A levels when taken orally.

What Are the Main Types of Retinoids?

Retinyl Palmitate (Least Strong)

This needs conversion to retinol, then retinaldehyde, and finally retinoic acid to be active in the skin. Also known as vitamin A palmitate, it is the mildest derivative of retinoic acid and can be used as an antioxidant in skin care. Despite bad press in recent years, it is quite safe. It is found naturally in our skin and is the most common form of vitamin A storage in mammals.

Retinol (Stronger)

This converts to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. Retinol is one of the most popular over-the-counter options, available in strengths from 0.01% to 1%. It’s less irritating than prescription retinoids but still well studied, boasting many benefits to the skin.

Retinaldehyde (Even Stronger)

Also known as retinal, it requires only one conversion step to become retinoic acid. Thought to be tolerated equally well to retinol despite being possibly stronger.

Retinoic Acid (Strongest)

Also known as tretinoin (e.g., Altreno, Atralin, Retin-A), this is the active form that binds directly to skin receptors (Retinoic Acid Receptor and Retinoid X.

Who Should Avoid Retinol?

Retinol can be irritating for people with very sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema. It is best to start with a low percentage a few nights a week and always follow with a moisturizer, such as Doctor Rogers Face Cream to support the skin barrier. For those who can tolerate retinol, see my step-by-step guide to starting a retinoid.

Even with careful use, there are some people who cannot tolerate retinol because of persistent irritation, redness or peeling (sometimes called retinal dermatitis).

Retinoids should also be avoided:

On healing skin
Immediately after a skin procedure
When planning to spend extended time in the sun without sunscreen

Is Retinol Safe During Pregnancy or Breastfeeding?

Retinol and other topical retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. High levels of vitamin A taken orally, such as isotretinoin (Accutane) are known to cause birth defects.

Pregnancy also increases skin sensitivity, further increasing the risk of irritation. As topical retinoids have not been extensively studied in pregnant women, the American Academy of Dermatology supports these precautions.

Gentle Alternatives to Retinol

Retinol is not the right choice for everyone. Many people with sensitive skin experience irritation, redness or peeling when using vitamin A derivatives.

Fortunately, there are ingredients that can improve skin tone and texture in similar ways with less irritation. One of the most promising alternatives is bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol: A Plant-Derived Retinol Alternative

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient often used as a gentler alternative to retinol. Although it is not a vitamin A derivative, it can produce similar anti-aging benefits and is sometimes called “nature’s retinol.”

Derived from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), bakuchiol helps stimulate collagen production and cell turnover. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it appealing for people with sensitive skin.

Bakuchiol works through retinoic acid receptors and other pathways, helping to reduce wrinkles, improve skin tone, and address acne, while typically causing less irritation than retinol.

Key Advantages of Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol offers several advantages compared with retinol.

Comparable Effectiveness: Studies show bakuchiol is just as effective as retinol in reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation.
Stable in Sunlight: Bakuchiol is stable in air and sunlight and not known to make skin more sun-sensitive (though daily sunscreen is still recommended).
Better tolerated: Clinical studies show retinol caused more stinging and facial skin scaling than bakuchiol.
Anti-inflammatory properties: Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory make it a great choice for sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema.

A 12-week clinical study comparing 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol found similar improvements in skin, but retinol users experienced more irritation.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is a powerful and well-tolerated chemical exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells, improve skin tone, and boost hydration. It is the most effective and well-researched of the AHAs, offering numerous benefits:

Cell Turnover: Increases cell turnover, prevents skin thinning and improves fine lines.
Hyperpigmentation: Helps fade dark spots and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Acne: Helps clear comedonal acne (whiteheads and blackheads).
Hydration Support: Boosts hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.

Other Forms of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids)

Examples include Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Gluconolactone. These ingredients are gentler alternatives to glycolic acid, offering mild exfoliation and hydration of the top layers of the skin leaving it plump and smooth.

A Retinol-Free Night Repair Treatment

Based on all this research and conversations with thousands of my patients about their night turnover needs, I decided to develop Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment, a retinol-free overnight treatment designed to reverse signs of aging through improved skin texture, tone and support the building of collagen, all while remaining tolerable for sensitive skin.

Active ingredients include

0.5% Bakuchiol: Helps stimulate collagen production, diminish wrinkles, improve elasticity, and smooth texture with less irritation than retinol.
5% Glycolic Acid: The most effective and well-researched form of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that removes dead skin cells, helps improve discoloration, activates cell turnover and increase hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.
5% Gluconolactone: A gentle polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and humectant that exfoliates to plump skin and improve tone and texture for a glass-like finish.

These actives are delivered to the skin in a hydrating and skin-supportive formula packed with squalane - a key component of our natural skin moisturizing factor - and glycerin - a powerful humectant. They work together to support the skin and make this powerful repair treatment better tolerated by sensitive skin.

No matter what you choose for your repair treatment, cell turnover, exfoliation for sun damage correction and texture improvement, remember it will take time and consistency before you see results. Learn more about your ideal morning and evening skincare routine.

Scientific References

Dhaliwal, S., et al. "Prospective, Randomized, Double-Blind Assessment of Topical Bakuchiol and Retinol for Facial Photoageing." British Journal of Dermatology, vol. 180, no. 2, Feb. 2019, pp. 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918.

About the Author: Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD

Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD is a double board-certified procedural dermatologist and Mohs surgeon and the co-founder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle, where she sees patients full-time. She is nationally recognized for her expertise in skin health, aging, and skin cancer prevention, and for her clear, evidence-based skincare guidance. Dr. Rogers serves on the American Academy of Dermatology Media Team, the Credo Beauty Council, the Sorette for Motherhood Scientific Advisory Board, and the NewBeauty Brain Trust.

She is the founder of Doctor Rogers Skincare, a dermatologist-developed line reflecting her less-is-more, science-backed approach to healthy skin. Dr. Rogers is a graduate of Stanford University, the University of Washington School of Medicine, and completed her dermatology training at Columbia University Medical Center.

Instagram: @drheatherrogers
Practice: mdinseattle.com
Skincare: doctorrogers.com

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