Doctor Rogers Blog The Skin Editorial

Sunscreen Guide 2026: Dermatologist Recommended Essentials

 

By Heather D. Rogers, MD, FAAD, Double Board-Certified Dermatologist

Dermatologist Sunscreen Key Recommendations 

First and most importantly, you should wear sunscreen every day. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, apply enough to fully cover exposed skin, and reapply every two hours when outdoors. The best sunscreen is the one you will use consistently.

There is so much unnecessary drama around sunscreen! I use it every day, I want you to use it every day. It is the most powerful anti-aging product we have with decades of data showing it  prevents the formation of skin cancers and the signs of aging. The only trick is finding a sunscreen that you like, both in consistency and ingredients so you can feel good about wearing it every day. And I’m here to help you do just that.

This dermatologist created guide breaks down what sunscreen is, all controversies around it and how to choose what type is best for you. Let's first start with some definitions. 

What Does SPF Mean?

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It measures how much solar energy (UV radiation) is required to produce sunburn on protected skin versus unprotected skin. 

For example, SPF 50 means it takes 50 times longer to burn with sunscreen than without, but this doesn’t account for how sunscreen starts to break down as soon as it is applied to the skin. This is why you still need to reapply sunscreen every two hours when in the sun, regardless of SPF.   

How Much Protection Does SPF Provide?

UVB Protection by SPF Level:

  • SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UVB rays
  • SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays
  • SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays

SPF Does Not Measure UVA Protection

It is important to note that SPF only measures protection from the sun’s UVB rays, which are primarily responsible for sunburn and DNA damage. UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin, breaking down collagen, causing wrinkles, discoloration, and contributing to skin cancer. This is why SPF is not enough and you need to make sure your sunscreen is labeled "broad spectrum," which protects against both UVA and UVB. 

Most People Do Not Apply Enough Sunscreen

Most people do not apply enough sunscreen to achieve the labeled SPF protection. 

  • Use a ¼ teaspoon on just your face 
  • Use 1 ounce (30ml) on your body per application

This is one of the reasons why the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends SPF 30 or higher. This ensures an SPF of at least 15 even when you under-apply.

What Does PA++ Mean?

PA indicates the level of protection against UVA rays. More plus signs means stronger UVA protection. You should choose the highest PA rating available when possible. 

PA stands for Protection Grade of UVA, a system developed in Asia to indicate UVA protection. More plus signs (+) equals better protection.

PA Rating System

PA Rating Scale: 

  • PA+ = 2–4 UVA-PF (50–75% protection)
  • PA++ = 4–8 UVA-PF (75–88%)
  • PA+++ = 8–16 UVA-PF (88–94%)
  • PA++++ = 16+ UVA-PF (94%+)

PA ratings are more commonly used in Europe than in the US. In the U.S., UVA protection is indicated by the term “broad spectrum,” which is less specific.

PA Rating vs Broad Spectrum

“Broad spectrum” means a sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB, but it does not indicate how strong the UVA protection is. The PA system provides a more specific measure of UVA protection.

What About Water Resistance?

Water-resistant sunscreen protects your skin for a limited time while swimming or sweating, but it does not last all day. You must reapply it regularly.

If you are swimming or sweating, you need a water-resistant sunscreen. The FDA tests and classifies these products based on how long they remain effective in water. 

Water Resistance Ratings

FDA-Approved Water Resistance Labels:

  • 40 minutes water-resistant
  • 80 minutes water-resistant

Those are the only two labels allowed by the FDA.

“Waterproof” No Longer Permitted on Labels

Even if a sunscreen lasts longer, the term "waterproof" is no longer permitted on labels. Regardless of water resistance, you must reapply regularly, especially after swimming or towel-drying.

Three Types of Sunscreen: Chemical, Mineral and Combination

There are three types of sunscreen: chemical, mineral (physical), and combination formulas, each categorized by their active ingredients. 

Chemical Sunscreens

Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat.

Common Active Ingredients

  • Avobenzone
  • Octisalate
  • Octocrylene
  • Oxybenzone
  • Octinoxate

These formulas absorb into the skin and tend to feel lighter and blend more easily, which is why they are often more cosmetically elegant.

However, these ingredients can break down when exposed to sunlight and are absorbed into the bloodstream. A 2019 study in JAMA showed higher systemic absorption than previously understood and we still don’t know the full implications of this. The FDA is requesting more data to assess long-term safety. We do know that animals exposed to large quantities of these ingredients have changes to their hormones and these findings were even seen in humans with oxybenzone.

Environmental and Safety Considerations of Chemical Sunscreens

These ingredients, particularly oxybenzone, have been detected in waterways and may affect ecosystems.

Why U.S. Chemical Sunscreen Filters Differ from European Options

It is important to note that these absorption and environmental concerns are specific to the chemical ingredients available in the United States. European chemical sunscreen ingredients are more photostable with lower systemic absorption. 

New Chemical Sunscreen Ingredient: Bemotrizinol (Expected Fall 2026)

Exciting news is that in the fall of 2026 the first new chemical sunscreen ingredient in 25 years is expected to launch in the United States. 

Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S or Parsol Shield)

  • Provides broad-spectrum protection (280-400nm) 
  • Is not easily absorbed through the skin
  • Is without hormonal disruption concerns
  • Highly photostable 
  • Used globally for over 20 years in Europe, Asia, and Australia with an excellent safety profile 

Mineral (Physical) Sunscreens

Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to reflect and scatter UV radiation on the skin’s surface.

Mineral Sunscreen Active ingredients

  • Zinc oxide
  • Titanium dioxide

Zinc oxide provides broad spectrum protection, while titanium dioxide is better at blocking UVB. Mineral sunscreens provide broad-spectrum protection, sitting on top of the skin to physically block or scatter UV rays. They also absorb UV, but less than chemical filters. 

These ingredients are classified as Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE) by the FDA. 

Who Should Use Mineral Sunscreen

Mineral sunscreens are more photostable than chemical filters, making them ideal for

  • Sensitive skin
  • Pregnancy
  • Children

Downsides of Mineral Sunscreen

They are more photostable than chemical filters but can leave a white cast and may feel thicker on the skin. 

Combination Sunscreens

Combination sunscreens contain both mineral and chemical UV filters. These formulas are designed to improve texture and wearability while reducing reliance on higher concentrations of mineral filters. They contain both chemical and physical UV blockers to reduce the exposure to chemical sunscreen ingredients and make mineral sunscreen less thick and easier to use. 

Some products labeled "100% mineral" have included non-FDA-regulated chemical filters to boost SPF and improve texture.

What is Sunscreen Doping

Sunscreen doping refers to the use of unregulated UV-absorbing ingredients in products labeled as “mineral sunscreen". 

Historically, both chemical and mineral UV filters were listed on sunscreen active ingredient labels. But the demand for mineral sunscreens has led to a controversial practice: Adding unregulated chemical UV blockers to mineral sunscreens to make formulas more cosmetically elegant without disclosing them. 

This practice, often referred to as sunscreen doping, uses chemical compounds similar to regulated UV filters, but are not FDA regulated. This allows their use at any percentage with no FDA concentration limits and no disclosure on the active ingredient list.

Why This Matters

  • These ingredients can increase SPF and improve texture
  • Products may still be labeled “100% mineral”
  • They are not subject to FDA concentration limits
  • They are less studied than approved sunscreen actives

Ingredients to Watch For

If you're trying to avoid chemical UV filters, read the full ingredient list, not just the label claims. These ingredients may appear in sunscreens marketed as "100% mineral". 

  • Butyloctyl salicylate (similar to octisalate)
  • Ethyl ferulate (similar to octocrylene)
  • Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (similar to octinoxate)
  • Tridecyl salicylate (similar to octisalate)

“Non-Toxic,” “Reef-Safe,” “Natural,” and “Organic” Sunscreen Claims

These are marketing terms, not FDA-regulated and I do not think are important to consider when selecting a sunscreen.

What Does “Reef-Safe” Mean?

“Reef-safe” typically refers to sunscreens that avoid certain chemical UV filters, particularly oxybenzone and octinoxate, which have been associated with coral reef damage.

Mineral sunscreens are generally considered less harmful to marine ecosystems, but the term “reef-safe” itself is not regulated.

What Does “Natural” Mean?

“Natural” sunscreen usually refers to mineral-based formulas that include plant-derived ingredients. This term is not regulated and does not define the type or effectiveness of UV protection.

What Does “Organic” Mean?

“Organic” has two different meanings, which often causes confusion. 

Chemistry Definition

In chemistry, organic refers to carbon-based molecules. This includes chemical (UV-absorbing) filters like avobenzone, octinoxate, as opposed to inorganic (mineral) filters like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide.

Marketing Definition

In marketing, “organic” refers to ingredients derived from plants and agricultural materials grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, GMOs, or artificial fertilizers. This definition is not regulated for sunscreens and does NOT describe the UV filters themselves.

What Does “Non-Toxic” Mean?

“Non-toxic” is not a regulated term. It is often used to describe mineral-only sunscreens but does not have a standardized definition or safety threshold.

You should focus on proven measures of protection, broad-spectrum coverage, SPF 30 or higher, and consistent use, not marketing language.

What Are EWG-Verified Sunscreens?

EWG-Verified is a certification from the Environmental Working Group, not a government or FDA designation. EWG-Verified sunscreens meet criteria set by the Environmental Working Group, but this does not mean they are safer or more effective than other sunscreens.

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) evaluates sunscreens based on safety, ingredient transparency, and marketing claims.

EWG Verification Criteria

To earn the EWG Verified badge, sunscreens must: 

  • Avoid sprays and powders (due to inhalation risk)
  • Have SPF 15 - 50
  • Avoid terms like “waterproof” or “sweatproof”
  • Fully disclose ingredients
  • Exclude certain flagged ingredients

What EWG Gets Right

EWG has pushed the sunscreen industry toward better transparency, more responsible marketing, and greater awareness of environmental and inhalation risks.

Where EWG Falls Short

EWG uses a hazard-based approach, meaning it evaluates whether an ingredient could cause harm under any circumstance, not whether it does at real-world exposure levels. This could lead to:

  • Overstating concerns about well-studied ingredients
  • Confusing theoretical risk with real-world safety
  • Overly limiting formulation options unnecessarily

How to Interpret EWG Ratings

EWG-Verified sunscreens are typically mineral-based and more conservative in formulation, but they are not necessarily more effective or better tolerated.

How to Choose the Right Sunscreen

Again: the best sunscreen is the one you will actually use every day.  Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher that feels good on your skin.

I personally choose zinc-based sunscreens for myself and my family. 

How to Choose the Best Sunscreen for Your Skin Type

Sensitive Skin or Pregnancy

You should use mineral sunscreens, especially zinc-based formulas.

For more recommendations for sensitive skin, see my feature in Harper's BAZAAR's "The 9 Best Sunscreens for Sensitive Skin, According to Dermatologists".

Oily or Acne-Prone Skin

A lightweight chemical sunscreen may feel better and be easier to wear consistently.

Darker Skin Tones

Chemical sunscreens or well-formulated tinted mineral sunscreens blend more easily and reduce white cast.

Dermatologist-Recommended Sunscreens

These are sunscreens I recommend based on formulation, performance, and real world use.

Mineral Sunscreens

Chemical Sunscreens

Combination Sunscreens

What I Use

My sunscreen choices depend on my plans.

Workday (Daily Use)

Face

Neck and Chest

High UVA Days (Beach, Boat)

Face

Body

Additional Sun Protection I Use

Vitamin C

I use vitamin C daily. When traveling in sunny climates, I apply my Day Preventive Treatment with 10% vitamin C both morning and night. I pause my night treatment on sunny trips. 

Oral Antioxidants

I take oral Polypodium Leucotomos for additional protection. Brands I recommend include ISDIN and Heliocare. 

How to Incorporate Sunscreen Into Your Daily Routine

You should apply sunscreen every morning as the final step in your skincare routine, before makeup.

Morning Skincare Routine with Sunscreen 

Sunscreen is not seasonal - you should wear it year-round.

  1. Apply a vitamin C serum
  2. Add moisturizer (if your skin is dry)
  3. Apply sunscreen - pay attention to areas most exposed to the sun including the face, neck, chest, and hands
  4. Apply makeup if desired

Sunscreen should be applied after moisturizer and before makeup.

How to Use Sunscreen Properly

Most people do not use enough sunscreen or reapply it often enough. Proper use is just as important as the type of sunscreen you choose.

Sunscreen Application Tips

  • Use 1/4 teaspoon (nickel-sized amount) for your face
  • Use 1 ounce (a shot glass) for your entire body
  • Reapply every 2 hours, or sooner if swimming, sweating, or towel-drying
  • Do not rely on makeup or powders with SPF alone - they do not provide enough coverage or durability
  • Do not rely on sunscreen alone - seek shade and wear sunglasses, hats, and sun-protective clothing
  • Never lie in the sun for the sole purpose of getting tan

Sunscreen is just one part of sun protection. Learn how to protect your skin with UPF clothing, antioxidants, and supplements in my guide to UV protection beyond sunscreen.

Are Chemical Sunscreens Safe?

The risk from using chemical sunscreens appears low based on current human data.

There are many animal and in vitro studies showing that some FDA-approved chemical UV filters can disrupt the endocrine system at high exposure levels. However, human studies have largely not confirmed clinically meaningful harm, with the most consistent signals seen with oxybenzone and even these show associations, not causation. To help minimize the risk of possible side effects, the FDA limits on how much of these ingredients can be used in a formulation of sunscreen.

Common Chemical UV Filter (U.S.)

  • Avobenzone
  • Octisalate
  • Octocrylene
  • Oxybenzone
  • Octinoxate

What the Research Shows About Chemical Sunscreen Ingredients

Benzophenone Derivatives (oxybenzone)

Oxybenzone has endocrine activity in lab and animal studies, particularly involving thyroid and sex hormones. 

In human studies, higher urinary oxybenzone levels have been associated with lower testosterone in adolescent boys. In one fertility-clinic cohort, higher levels of oxybenzone were linked to lower antral follicle count in women ≤35 and higher FSH in women >35 suggesting hormonal effects.

It is also a recognized cause of allergic contact dermatitis and photoallergy.

Octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate)

Octinoxate shows estrogenic activity in laboratory studies, but human studies have not demonstrated meaningful hormonal effects. Also associated with environmental concerns (coral reefs).

Octocrylene

It is detectable in blood, urine, and breast milk after use. Animal data suggest possible neurotoxicity and progesterone-like effects, but human relevance remains unclear.

Octisalate

Limited data. Some in vitro studies (including human sperm models) suggest potential endocrine activity, but no clear clinical evidence in humans. 

What Clinical Research Says About Sunscreen Safety

A recent review article in the International Journal of Dermatology on the safety of chemicals summarizes the safety of chemical sunscreen ingredients. 

“Recent evidence of high systemic absorption of sunscreen ingredients has raised concerns regarding the safety of sunscreen products. Oxybenzone (BP-3) and octinoxate (OMC), two common sunscreens. Their impact on human health requires a careful assessment.

There are 29 studies that address the impact of these ingredients on human health. Studies show that elevated systemic level of BP-3 has no adverse effect on male and female fertility, female reproductive hormone level, adiposity, fetal growth, child’s neurodevelopment and sexual maturation. However, the association of BP-3 level on thyroid hormone, testosterone level, kidney function and pubertal timing has been reported and prompts further investigations to validate a true association. The systemic absorption of OMC has no reported effect on thyroid and reproductive hormone levels."

The Controversy Around “Doping” Mineral Sunscreens

As discussed above, some mineral sunscreens include unregulated UV-absorbing ingredients. Here’s why that matters.

“Sunscreen doping” refers to the use of unregulated UV-absorbing ingredients in products labeled as mineral sunscreen.

Traditionally, sunscreen active ingredients (both mineral and chemical) are clearly listed and regulated. More recently, a controversial trend has emerged: so-called “doping” of mineral sunscreens. This refers to the inclusion of UV-absorbing ingredients that are structurally similar to FDA-regulated chemical filters, but are not classified as sunscreen actives in the U.S. Because of this, they can be added to formulations without being listed as active ingredients.

Why This Matters

  • These ingredients can boost UV protection, allowing brands to use lower levels of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide
  • This often improves cosmetic elegance (less white cast, better texture)
  • Products may still be marketed as “100% mineral”, despite relying partly on these unregulated UV-absorbing compounds

Safety and Regulatory Considerations

The safety concern is that unlike FDA-approved sunscreen actives, these ingredients are not subject to concentration limits in sunscreen formulations.

For example: The U.S. Food and Drug Administration limits octisalate to 5%, but butyloctyl salicylate, a structurally similar compound, can be used at any percentage because it is not regulated as an active ingredient.

This doesn’t mean these ingredients are unsafe, but it does mean they are less studied and less tightly regulated in this context.

What Sunscreen Doping Means for Consumers

The take home point is that if you are trying to avoid chemical sunscreens, you have to read the labels and look for these ingredients even if the sunscreen says it is 100% mineral.

Ingredients to Look For

  • Butyloctyl salicylate
  • Tridecyl salicylate
  • Ethyl ferulate
  • Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate

You can read more about “sunscreen doping” at Lab Muffin Science.

References

Clinical guidance in this article reflects published dermatology literature and the author's clinical experience as a double board-certified dermatologist.

1. American Academy of Dermatology. "Sunscreen FAQs." AAD.org. https://www.aad.org/media/stats-sunscreen

2. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. "Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun." FDA.gov. https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/sunscreen-how-help-protect-your-skin-sun

3. Matta MK, Zusterzeel R, Pilli NR, et al. "Effect of Sunscreen Application Under Maximal Use Conditions on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients: A Randomized Clinical Trial." JAMA, vol. 321, no. 21, 4 June 2019, pp. 2082–2091. doi:10.1001/jama.2019.5586. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31058986/

4. Matta MK, Florian J, Zusterzeel R, et al. "Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients: A Randomized Clinical Trial." JAMA, vol. 323, no. 3, 21 Jan. 2020, pp. 256–267. doi:10.1001/jama.2019.20747. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31961417/

5. Suh S, Pham C, Smith J, Mesinkovska NA. "The Banned Sunscreen Ingredients and Their Impact on Human Health: A Systematic Review." International Journal of Dermatology, vol. 59, no. 9, Sept. 2020, pp. 1033–1042. doi:10.1111/ijd.14824. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32108942/

6. Scinicariello F, Buser MC. "Serum Testosterone Concentrations and Urinary Bisphenol A, Benzophenone-3, Triclosan, and Paraben Levels in Male and Female Children and Adolescents: NHANES 2011–2012." Environmental Health Perspectives, vol. 124, no. 12, Dec. 2016, pp. 1898–1904. doi:10.1289/EHP150. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27383665/

7. Silva EL, Mínguez-Alarcón L, Coull B, Hart JE, James-Todd T, Calafat AM, Ford JB, Hauser R, Mahalingaiah S. "Urinary Benzophenone-3 Concentrations and Ovarian Reserve in a Cohort of Subfertile Women." Fertility and Sterility, vol. 122, no. 3, Sept. 2024, pp. 494–503. doi:10.1016/j.fertnstert.2024.04.032. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38697237/

8. Landers M, Law S, Storrs FJ. "Contact Urticaria, Allergic Contact Dermatitis, and Photoallergic Contact Dermatitis from Oxybenzone." American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, vol. 14, no. 1, Mar. 2003, pp. 33–34. doi:10.2310/6620.2003.38769. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14744420/

9. Russo JP, Ipiña A, Palazzolo JF, Cannavó AB, Piacentini RD, Niklasson B. "Photoallergic Contact Dermatitis to Sunscreens Containing Oxybenzone in La Plata, Argentina." Actas Dermo-Sifiliográficas (English Edition), vol. 109, no. 6, July–Aug. 2018, pp. 521–528. doi:10.1016/j.ad.2018.02.011. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29655482/

 

About the Author: Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD

Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD is a double board-certified procedural dermatologist and Mohs surgeon and the co-founder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle, where she sees patients full-time. She is nationally recognized for her expertise in skin health, aging, and skin cancer prevention, and for her clear, evidence-based skincare guidance. Dr. Rogers serves on the American Academy of Dermatology Media Team, the Credo Beauty Council, the Sorette for Motherhood Scientific Advisory Board, and the NewBeauty Brain Trust.

She is the founder of Doctor Rogers Skincare, a dermatologist-developed line reflecting her less-is-more, science-backed approach to healthy skin. Dr. Rogers is a graduate of Stanford University, the University of Washington School of Medicine, and completed her dermatology training at Columbia University Medical Center.

Instagram: @drheatherrogers
Practice: mdinseattle.com
Skincare: doctorrogers.com

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