A Dermatologist’s Guide to At-Home Skin Care Devices
By Heather D. Rogers, MD, FAAD, Double Board-Certified Dermatologist
At-home skin care devices are everywhere. Some are helpful, many are not, and all are overhyped. None do as much for your skin as being consistent with your optimized skincare regimen.
Of all at-home skin care devices, red light therapy currently has the strongest combination of scientific evidence, safety and visible results. Most other devices provide either temporary cosmetic effects or minimal proven long-term benefit.
Your Skincare Routine Matters More Than Any Device
None of these devices will do as much for your skin as consistently following a simple, optimized skincare routine.
A good skincare routine includes:
- A gentle face wash
- A moisturizer that supports the skin barrier
- Daily sunscreen
- An antioxidant serum in the morning, like my Day Preventive Treatment
- A cell turnover product at night, such as prescription tretinoin or my Night Repair Treatment with bakuchiol and glycolic acid.
If you need a refresher on how to build a perfect skincare routine, I have a blog dedicated to it here.
If you are already crushing your skincare regimen and ready to make things more complicated then let's move on to at home devices and see if any are worth your time and money.
Which At-Home Skin Care Devices Are Actually Worth It?
Once your skincare routine is optimized, some at-home devices may offer additional benefits. The problem is that the quality of evidence, safety and long-term results vary dramatically between categories.
Red Light Therapy
Red light therapy is currently the one category of at-home skin care device backed by the best combination of science, safety and visible results.
Low-level red and near-infrared light devices help stimulate cellular energy production and reduce inflammation in the skin.
With consistent use, studies suggest red light therapy can help improve:
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Redness
- Uneven pigmentation
- Acne
- Wound healing
- Overall skin quality
The key is consistency and a well-made device. Most studies use treatments several times a week over months, not days. This is not an overnight fix, but many people notice their skin is calmer and healthier over time.
You need to use the device as recommended by the manufacturer as they vary in irradiance and the time required to deliver the dose of energy proven to benefit the skin.
In my research, both Omnilux and Celluma are well designed. In comparison, the Dr. Dennis Gross and Theraface irradiance may be too powerful for more sensitive skin.
For those wanting to understand more about red light, I have a blog dedicated to it here.
Facial Massage Devices
Facial massage tools can temporarily reduce puffiness by helping move fluid through the lymphatic system helping to make your face look more sculpted or defined temporarily.
These devices do not create long-term lifting or tightening, but they can temporarily improve puffiness and facial definition. I find them helpful in the morning after too much salt or booze to depuff my face.
I use the facial massage tool from Joanna Czech and the TheraFace. I find both helpful and easy to use.
Microcurrent Devices
Microcurrent devices like NuFACE and ZIIP use low-level electrical currents to stimulate facial muscles.
They are time consuming and for many the conductive gel can be irritating. I do not recommend them as a long term treatment for sagging. You have to use them consistently to maintain the effect, and once you stop, the lifting effect fades fairly quickly.
That said, they can temporarily lift and tighten the face, particularly around the cheeks and jawline, which can be helpful before an event or photos. This is a common treatment for celebrity facials before an award show.
High Frequency Wands
High frequency wands are often marketed as acne treatments because they generate ozone, which may help reduce acne-causing bacteria on the skin.
The problem is the evidence is minimal and we have so many proven acne treatments that are more effective, including
- Retinoids
- Benzoyl peroxide
-
Salicylic acid
-
Sulfur
- Hydrocolloid patches
- LED light therapy
These devices are relatively low risk if used correctly, but I would not expect dramatic changes and do not recommend them.
Mechanical Cleansing Brushes
Just stay away.
Mechanical cleansing devices can disrupt the skin barrier, worsen irritation and aggravate conditions like rosacea, eczema and acne. They also harbor bacteria.
Your hands work perfectly well and exfoliation is generally more effective when it is chemical, like retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids, rather than mechanical, like brushes or scrubs.
Dry Saunas
Dry saunas have become incredibly popular recently and unlike many wellness trends, there is some decent data supporting overall health benefits. Regular sauna use has been associated with improved circulation, stress reduction, better sleep and cardiovascular health.
From a skin perspective, saunas increase blood flow to the skin through vasodilation. This increased circulation may help support skin health, healing and barrier function by delivering more oxygen and nutrients to the skin.
Early research suggests heat exposure may stimulate heat shock proteins, which help cells repair stress and damage, and may play a role in collagen remodeling over time.
That said, I do not want to overstate the anti-aging benefits of saunas and there are many who cannot tolerate them. For some people, especially those with rosacea or sensitive skin, the excessive heat can worsen redness.
A few tips:
- Keep sessions reasonable in temperature and length, especially when starting out
- Hydrate well before and after
- Wash sweat off and then moisturize after to prevent over drying out of the skin.
- Skip if your skin is already feeling dried out or sensitive
As you often hear me say, great skin doesn’t come from doing more. It comes from doing the few things that work, and doing them consistently. I can help you identify what those things are, but you have to commit to them. Of these devices, the red light is the only one I regularly recommend for the skin and dry sauna for general health benefits.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best at-home skin care device?
Red light therapy is currently the at-home skin care device category backed by the best combination of science, safety and visible results.
Does red light therapy actually work for skin?
With consistent use, studies suggest red light therapy can help improve fine lines and wrinkles, redness, uneven pigmentation, acne, wound healing and overall skin quality. The key is consistency and a well-made device.
Do microcurrent devices permanently tighten skin?
Microcurrent devices can temporarily improve facial lifting and definition, but they do not lead to significant long-term tightening. Once you stop using them, the effect fades fairly quickly.
Are cleansing brushes bad for your skin?
Mechanical cleansing devices can disrupt the skin barrier, worsen irritation and aggravate conditions like rosacea, eczema and acne. Exfoliation is generally more effective when it is chemical rather than mechanical.
About the Author: Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD
Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD is a double board-certified procedural dermatologist and Mohs surgeon and the co-founder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle, where she sees patients full-time. She is nationally recognized for her expertise in skin health, aging, and skin cancer prevention, and for her clear, evidence-based skincare guidance. Dr. Rogers serves on the American Academy of Dermatology Media Team, the Credo Beauty Council, the Sorette for Motherhood Scientific Advisory Board, and the NewBeauty Brain Trust.
She is the founder of Doctor Rogers Skincare, a dermatologist-developed line reflecting her less-is-more, science-backed approach to healthy skin. Dr. Rogers is a graduate of Stanford University, the University of Washington School of Medicine, and completed her dermatology training at Columbia University Medical Center.
Instagram: @drheatherrogers
Practice: mdinseattle.com
Skincare: doctorrogers.com
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